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- I traveled in style in a premium train car aboard Madaraka Express between Voi and Nairobi in Kenya.
- My ticket cost about $66, and the ride made me feel like I was in a first-class plane cabin.
- The route goes through multiple national parks, and I was able to spot elephants from my seat.
On a recent trip to Kenya, I learned about the new premium-class train service on the Madaraka Express.
It connects the tourist-favored coastal city of Mombasa and the cosmopolitan Kenya capital Nairobi. The train travels through numerous national parks, game reserves, and wildlife conservancies.
Essentially, it makes it possible to go on an extended safari throughout Kenya without renting a car or arranging drivers.
So, I booked a ticket and an upgrade. Here’s what it was like to ride premium class on Kenya’s Madaraka Express.
My one-way premium ticket only cost about $66.
I took the Madaraka Express to Nairobi after spending four days at the nearby Lions Bluff Lodge near Voi, a town on the edge of the Taru Desert
The cost to go one way on the full route from Mombasa to Nairobi in the premium class is about $93. However, my trip from Voi to Nairobi was only $65.50 and I could bring my large backpack and overstuffed duffel for no extra charge.
That’s less than a one-way economy flight on Kenya Airways between Mombasa and Nairobi, which usually costs around $71 each way (not including a checked bag).
I took a morning train from Voi Station, near Mombasa.
Voi Station is one of the largest stations on the line.
The station had a large, crowded waiting area, as well as a small lounge for premium passengers (which I wasn’t allowed to photograph) with padded chairs and basic snacks.
I arrived about 30 minutes before my train left, giving myself plenty of time to go through the quick security check and browse the two small souvenir shops over the station.
Boarding was easy, but I had to hustle to find the right car.
Boarding the train felt straightforward, although I had to quickly make my way to the front car — where the premium class is — before it left.
Once aboard, staff checked my ticket, escorted me to my seat, and helped me store my luggage in the back of the car.
My premium seat felt spacious and offered lots of privacy.
The premium seating looked like what I’d find in business or first class on an international flight.
There’s just one large seat on each side of the train, staggered so when you step into the aisle, you’re not directly next to another person.
Each seat looked extra wide and could transform into a lie-flat bed, though I didn’t try to sleep during my daytime journey. However, I saw several passengers from Mombasa just waking up when I boarded, and they looked pretty comfortable.
My seat was loaded with amenities.
My premium seat came with a large side table with USB ports and a standard (Kenyan) plug, an adjustable reading light, a small storage compartment, a screen with seat controls, and a footrest.
There was also a large TV screen and plenty of space in the overhead bin for my large backpack and overstuffed duffel.
I recommend choosing a seat on the left side of the train if you’re on this route.
Every seat was tilted slightly to the left, which left my back a little more exposed to the aisle. The angled seating felt odd at first.
However, once the train started moving, the design made more sense. Passengers on the left side got a direct, unobstructed view of the landscape without needing to turn their heads.
Although the right side of the train also had great views, those passengers had to twist a bit more to take in the scenery.
The sleeping situation felt as nice as a first-class flight.
I’ve flown first class on international flights before, and this train felt just as nice as those trips.
The lie-flat seat controls worked well, and when combined with the footrest extension, my entire setup became a continuous sleeping surface.
At 5 feet, 7 inches, I could fully stretch out — but taller passengers might need to bend their legs slightly.
The meal was so-so, but it still added to the experience.
Breakfast service began soon after I boarded. Train attendants came around to take my order from three meal options: Indian, Kenyan, or Western.
I chose scrambled eggs with tomatoes and yogurt. Although I wouldn’t say the meal was the highlight of my ride, it helped the trip feel more elegant — especially as I could spot elephants while sipping a hot coffee.
The Madaraka Express travels through some of Africa’s most iconic sites.
The Madaraka Express passes between Tsavo East and Tsavo West national parks.
From the left side of the train, I got a clear view of the Tsavo Railway Bridge — the infamous site of the 1898 attacks in which lions killed many railway workers. It later inspired the movie “The Ghost and the Darkness.” As a history buff, I appreciated getting to see the bridge.
A highlight was also traveling above Nairobi National Park, about 4 miles from the city center. It’s one of the few places travelers can do a full big-game safari within a major urban area.
The last few miles of the Standard Gauge Railway leading into Nairobi are elevated above the park, allowing wildlife to move freely beneath it.
Trains slow down over this stretch to reduce disturbances to wildlife and give passengers a chance to spot elephants, giraffes, and even rhinos from their seats.
My train ride felt like an international first-class flight for a fraction of the price.
My train ride was only about four hours, although my setup was so good I wish it was longer.
I spent the ride working on WiFi (which was intermittent), watching the landscapes go by, and chatting with other tourists in the dining car.
If I’d had more time on board, I would’ve used the other features of the seat to really stretch out and spent more time watching for wildlife outside my window.
